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>> Johanna Drew Cluney 1895 – 1978

Johanna Drew Cluney was a featherwork artist who began creating her feather pieces in the 1930s. She made over 1000 hat lei, fans, headpieces and hats. For her artistry, she won an award of excellence from Governor Samuel King and in 1966, the
Johanna Keaioana Drew was born in
“Whoever goes to buy featherwork…will find her, muumuu-clad and often barefooted in her cottage in Kalihi. The lei she is working on will be anchored to a flannel binding on a wooden chair back, held in place by the prong of a large safety pin.” [2]
“To work with feathers, ‘the beauty of the bird,’ requires a special mana…or right. When she began, three Hawaiians tested her and concluded, ‘The work is with you’…She reached that point only after she had struggled against and overcome the many negative forces …around her. Utterly destitute, she prayed not for material aid, but for a peacock lei which she seemed to see before her eyes.” [3] A friend’s gift of a blue peacock feather lei was the answer to her prayer and the encouragement she needed to pursue her craft. The lei became the model for subsequent lei.
The extinction
of native birds species once used to make the chiefs’ capes, helmets and lei
and her own poor financial circumstances led her to experiment in other kinds
of feathers and dyes for color. She says, “I had no money. I was glad just
to have a job ironing clothes.”
[4]
How was she going to acquire the thousands of
feathers needed to begin experimenting and learning her craft? She decided to create elegant objects from common
feathers. “And in the face of poverty, she pioneered the use of less expensive
duck, rooster and gooney bird feathers. She also experimented with dyes…she
often would visit the old
Each lei had a special story and sometimes she gave them names for the circumstances under which they were created. She also believed that her featherwork was imbued with sacred, spiritual power and that her abilities were divinely inspired.
Because she believed that God guided and inspired her
work, she jealously guarded the secrets of her craft. “Birds accomplish their
long migrations, not by flapping their wings, but by sailing on the winds.
Similarly, one should not think that Ms. Cluney herself is acting as her fingers
move, but instead should recognize the spirit given her which works within
and through her.
Her own experience proves to her that the Hawaiian world
is not dead. Native animals considered extinct have merely returned to the
divine kapu (sacred place) from whence they sprang until a time when we learn
to miss them.
Two
oÿo birds
from which yellow feathers used to be plucked for capes and helmets, appeared
recently. One was shot and dissected in a museum. The other escaped to report
that the time was not yet ripe. Even more recently a special shrimp was detected
in a photograph of a pool. Ms. Cluney sees the shadows of the birds flitting
before her eyes and hears their chirping.
She
has the faithful conviction that the talent which she is endowed will pass
on to another…’What will be done then, I do not know.’ Because the work is
spiritual, it will be necessarily new, unique and creative. The work will
be Hawaiian, but in a changed world. ”
[6]
Mrs. Cluney described her work this way, “I tell a story with my needle and thread. The feather leis that I make are the symbols of the expert toil of people of long ago, of leis that decorated chiefess’ heads, of magnificent cloaks and helmets that warrior chiefs wore into battle.” [7]
[1]
Mrs.
[2] Mary Cooke, “feather art: secret, sacred,” Honolulu Advertiser, April 11, 1973.
[3] “Johanna Cluney: the last featherworker,” Sunday Advertiser and Star-Bulletin, September 2, 1973.
[4] Mary Cooke, “feather art: secret, sacred,” Honolulu Advertiser, April 11, 1973 p. D1.
[5]
“Queen of feather leis, Johanna D. Cluney, 82.” Obituaries.
[6] “Johanna Cluney: the last featherworker,” Sunday Advertiser and Star-Bulletin, September 2, 1973.
[7] “Queen of feather leis, Johanna D. Cluney, 82.”
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